A strange place: a village, nameless now, deep in the forest. The old main street can no longer be called even a cart track, the houses lie in ruins, and here and there a building still stands whole. Some gates still bear a padlock, perhaps the depths of a larder still hide something, but everywhere decay holds sway, the smell, the sight and the feel of things passing away. Beside the many toppled and tumbledown ruins the abandoned church is an edifying sight: it still stands firm – true, a layer of dust covers the altar and only the place where the crucifix hung can be seen, but the building itself still stands… While a settlement’s church still stands, the village is not yet dead, for all that its main road has become a ghost track. It is also true that a settlement is at an end where people still live, where the women chat in front of their houses as they rock the children, but the church stands in ruins. A caved-in roof leaves the house of God orphaned, and sooner or later spiritual collapse is followed by physical death as well.
Deep thoughts, still deeper silences kept – the moments trickle slowly by. We leave behind the settlement overgrown with creepers and trees and wander back along the seldom-trodden path. Behind us the dead village, ahead of us the livelier part of our party, who set off sooner. But now the party has pulled up short, we can see it even from afar, they have stopped beside the herd. Some two hundred cows stand sluggishly all around, motionless. There is a kind of expectancy, a tension in the air. Our friends stand about, the cows stand about, we are still out of earshot, but the wave of bewilderment washes over us too. We quicken our pace, even the few words run dry, and only the hurried steps remain.
When we come near, the riddle seems to solve itself, but the tension mounts. In the middle of the herd the lad is busy with a cow: the beast is calving. The lad is shouting for help, if only someone would come, but the hikers are town people, and none of them knows anything about livestock. The lad cannot manage the task, he keeps calling out, but still nobody moves. And the several hundred beasts wait. The cows sense the mystery of life, of birth. Like the petals of a flower they ring the labouring beast in the middle, all of them gazing towards her, rump to the passing world, nose to the miracle of being born. I see the lad sweating, on the point of giving up. I have never calved a beast either, but I set off towards him. Still, to find a way through two hundred cows… Like women they stand around the miracle of the life about to be born – what business has a man here?! Had they taken offence, they could easily have trampled me, but no, gently, elegantly, even compassionately they open a way, all but urging me to hurry. Soon I am there in the middle, the outside world has ceased, and I see only the cows’ faces, expectant, helpless, yet hopeful: their eyes are so human! Here, now, is the centre of the world, a beast is about to be born, the mystery of life, ah, only let it not tip over into the mystery of death!
The lad looks at me, I understand him without words, the calf’s fetlock is already hanging out, but the cow cannot manage, she is not pushing enough. We have to pull. Slippery the fetlock, slick the hands, sweating the brow, and there in the middle of the field, under the rays of hundreds upon hundreds of pairs of cows’ eyes, we fight for life. In blood and filth – the cow glances back and looks at us, this cosmic embodiment of existence and birth. In her is the eternal mother, the one who hands on the secret of life, this is no beast at all, but a veritable institution, a principle. Her look is imploring, plainly she is as worn out as the lad, who could not manage the calf alone. One more tug, the hoof slips from my hand, a new grip, the lad too finds fresh strength, the little one’s nose appears, then its head, a little more, we pull and haul, and then with a sudden slither a new life flops onto the ground, the kicking, flailing calf. Coming to life, or dying – it is not yet decided. Its mother totters off a little way, the lad and I can only pant. The cow sniffs at it, then turns away, the little one paws with its legs. A thought freezes in me: I am a stranger among them, what if she has caught my scent on her young and will not accept it?! But the lad signals, he is calmer, and when the beast recovers from her labours, she turns to it and licks her calf… the bathing begins. With beaded brow and tear-filled eyes, slick to the elbows, I shake hands with the lad, who signals that all will be well now, he can manage alone. The miracle has happened, there at the tiny centre of the immeasurably vast world Life has been born, the flower-petals of the herd still enfold the holiness protectively, and I stumble wordlessly out of the circle, I am no longer needed… but I had great need of them. A dying village and a calf being born, life and death, beginning and end, houses and beasts, man and animal – the far ends touch, and over the transience of the dead mud bricks life itself prevails.