I walk among ruins: glory of old – today a heap of stones. Once a royal seat, a great mon­as­tery, a meet­ing place for throngs of nobles, fri­ars and com­mon folk, where people, goods and ideas flowed. From the high ground one could see the marshes that reached all the way here from a dis­tant lake, a day's walk away. By now the kings have died, the waters have run dry, the people are lost, the walls have fallen. One column remains at the corner of the cloister, only the lines of the found­a­tions mark out the former court­yard, and an arti­fi­cial herb garden tries blindly to recre­ate the phys­ic garden of the mon­as­tery that once was. Under a grave­stone lies a king long dead, and under the heavy lay­ers of time the past lies hid­den. I walk on the rubble of the past, as if the present were pieced togeth­er from the shards of long ago, yet it forms no more than a frag­ment­ary torso.

Though the ruins are lofty, and the con­cen­trated power of former days can still be felt, my heart does not leap. The memori­al park is offi­cial, done by the book, its sur­round­ings life­less, the past irre­voc­ably past. I turn my back on the offi­cial garden of ruins and strike out on the path that winds into the hills and, they say, leads to anoth­er place of remem­brance. The space is wil­der­ness, the age the time before kings and mon­as­ter­ies. Here there is no stone, no ground plan, no sur­viv­ing vault and no recre­ated herb garden, but there is a mossy tree trunk, a map drawn by nature, and instead of carved stone the vault of the sky and the raw, bold primev­al garden of Moth­er Nature. There is no king, but there is order, no ordin­ance, but there is law, no rule, but there is truth.

Silence. Not a soul any­where, yet this solitude is not lonely. In the clear­ing a cairn of rough stones, heaped one upon anoth­er, marks a place of remem­brance that evokes ancient times: a sen­tence, a col­oured rib­bon, withered petals. The leaf­less crown-ring of the trees leaves a wide expanse of the end­less sky open. There is no wind, no cloud either, and the outer silence cre­ates all those con­di­tions for inner silence that lie out­side me.

– Kraaa, kraaa… – a rough voice calls from on high. So I am not alone after all. I would say a crow is circ­ling in the sky, but no, its flight is dif­fer­ent, its voice is dif­fer­ent. It is a raven, not a white raven but a black one. It flies high, circles, glides, and now and then calls out. It does not go about in flocks like crows, but alone – could it be the guard­i­an of this sac­red place, now keep­ing watch on the intruder? An ancient totem anim­al come to life, know­er of the secrets of cre­ation, keep­er of time – such things are said of the raven. Ravens carry news of human­kind to the north­ern gods, and entrust their secrets only to those who are worthy of them.

I keep glan­cing up at the sky, try­ing to fol­low his circ­ling. He is watch­ing. When I answer, mim­ick­ing his voice, he waits a little, and then he too caws. We are talk­ing. The raven is a faith­ful, mono­gam­ous com­pan­ion, and now he is get­ting to know me. Although he is also held to be the her­ald of death, the bird of passing, his com­pany bodes no ill, and it is true he ven­tures no closer. The raven keeps com­pany only with the saints, bring­ing them food, as many legends tell. I move, walk round, step a little away from the cairn that marks the place, and he too dis­ap­pears. I call up to the sky: kraaa – he appears again and answers. His incant­a­tion speaks of change. Could he be an ancient raven, thou­sands of years old, whom fate has appoin­ted to guard this hid­den place of pil­grim­age? Per­haps he thinks he recog­nises me, and hopes we may have met before? He circles in the space the crown-ring leaves open, high up, but what if we have already changed places a thou­sand times?

Was I once the raven, and he the sham­an? Now he is the feathered keep­er of the place, and I the vis­it­or who has strayed here. I too would like to believe that this is not our first meet­ing. I would offer him food, but he is too far off. Pi-i-ity…

I feel him watch­ing me even as I lay an ever­green bough at the cairn, even as I make my offer­ing to the ancest­ors with pray­er and vow – and so per­haps to him as well, the old com­rade. For some time now he has kept silent. I gath­er my things, lift my face to the sky in farewell, and search for him on high. He has sensed it, and he too is tak­ing his leave. Sound­lessly he glides away, van­ish­ing behind the sil­hou­ette of the trees' bare crowns, as if he had never been here. A few steps, and no trace of me remains either, as if I had never been here. But his memory stays with me, even his liv­ing real­ity, and who knows what he takes with him – of me?